• Caution: Most products associated with auto body repair and painting are toxic, some extremely so. Read all labels carefully, heed safety warnings, and wear the suggested protective clothing and gear.

For a Small Chip

1. Prepare the Surface: Scrape off any loose paint and rub the rusted area with an abrasive pad. Then apply rust neutralizer/converter evenly over all exposed metal using a small brush. Allow it to dry for a couple of hours and apply a second coat. Wait 24 hours before priming. Avoid getting the neutralizer/converter on the paint and immediately wash off any spills or drips with soap and water.

• Tip: Always shake or mix primer (and paint) well before applying. Shake spray cans vigorously for at least one full minute after the steel ball inside the can starts rolling around. When finished spraying, tip the can upside down and spray for a few seconds until only clear propellant comes out. This prevents the nozzle from clogging.

• Tip: Exact matching is nearly impossible, especially with an older, oxidized finish. You can best match a finish by first cleaning the car and using a polishing compound to bring back the original color as best possible.

For a Small Rusty Area

1. Remove Rust: Using 60-grit abrasive, sand or grind off rust and wipe off the dust with a solvent-dampened cloth.

2. Apply Primer: Secure newspaper over the area with painter's making tape. Leave open only a small hole a few inches larger than the damaged area. Apply primer from a spray can. Hold the can about 12 inches away from the surface and cover the entire area using straight back-and-forth overlapping passes. Start spraying in the masked area and move into and across the exposed area and onto the masked area again before reversing direction. To avoid drips but achieve complete coverage, apply two to three light coats, waiting about 5 minutes between coats, or as directed on the label.

3. Sand Smooth: Remove masking. Using medium- and then fine-grit abrasive sheets on a finishing sander or rubber sanding block, smooth the area to remove any scratches, and feather into the surrounding paint. Clean with a solvent-dampened rag and prime again.

4. Apply Automotive Glazing Putty: Use a plastic spreader to smooth automotive glazing putty over the entire sanded area, working it into the surface. This very fine putty fills scratches and the transitions between areas that were sanded bare and unsanded areas that would otherwise show only after painting. When the putty has cured, sand it smooth, beginning with 220-grit abrasive. Reapply putty to tiny pinholes or other depressions as needed. Complete sanding with 400-grit abrasive. Keep in mind that while it's fine to sand through the compound to the primer in areas, you don't want to sand through the primer. If you inadvertently expose bare metal, repeat the priming/filling/sanding process.

• Tip: Wet-sanding - the technique of wetting the surface and the special "wet or dry" sanding sheet with water as you sand - creates a fine slurry that helps smooth the surface better than dry-sanding does.

• Tip: If your paint is not available in spray cans, purchase a small aerosol paint sprayer and fill its reservoir with paint from a can.

6. Apply Clear Coat: If your vehicle's finish has a clear coat over the paint (ask your auto dealer), wait an hour to remove and reapply the masking tape and paper, exposing a still larger area. Spray on the clear coat as you did the topcoat.

7. Polish and Wax: Wait at least one full week, then use a polishing compound as directed on the label. This very fine abrasive will help blend the repaired and painted area with the surrounding area. If you are doing the whole car you might want a power buffing/waxing machine (buy or rent). Apply your favorite protective auto wax/polish.